Introduction
I have often heard people say "you should get out of Bangkok as soon as possible." In my opinion, this couldn't be more wrong. Bangkok is huge, crazy, congested, and sometimes baffling. It can be overwhelming at first. But give it a chance and it really grows on you.
There's so much to explore, so much to see and do, delicious food, cool bars, a rich history and plenty of interesting museums and galleries. The best way to experience Bangkok is to make use of the excellent public transport system and get out exploring.
Map of the Bangkok
Where To Stay in Bangkok
Sukhumivit
Bangkok is vast but one of the best area to base yourself is Sukhumvit. Specifically between the Nana BTS station and the Asok BTS station. This is a large area where you will find a wide range of accommodation from the 300B (£7.50) a night dorms at the 3Howw Hostel all the way up to the insanely swanky 10,000B (£250) a night executive suite at the The Landmark. You will also be surrounded by places to eat and drink and be within walking distance of two BTS stations and an MRT station (which in turn links you with the train station, the airport and the river transport system).
Accommodation recommendation:
Hom Hostel
Hom Hostel offers a variety of rooms, from 10 bed dorms (400B; £10) to 6 bed dorms (500B; £12.50). It has female-only and mixed rooms. Additionally, it has a really nice king room, if dorms aren't your thing (1600B; £40).
The communal area is a real highlight. A nice, well equipped, clean kitchen and dining area. Guest are welcome to cook (as long as you clean up after yourself). There is also a pretty roof garden full of plants and flowers. The staff are friendly and helpful, and they are happy to give you advice and book tours or activities for you.
Not a loud, party hostel, Hom has a more relaxed vibe, though there are still plenty of opportunities to socialise, such as during the nightly cooking lessons in the kitchen area. One thing to note, the hostel is on the top floor of a small shopping centre (there's a lift). This can seem a bit confusing in advance but it all makes sense once you arrive.
Alternatives: 3Howw Hostel dorm rooms from 300B (£7.50); Folk Poshtel Asok (400B/£10 dorm rooms; 1750B/£43 deluxe double room); Arte Hotel (3500B/£86 deluxe double room; 8500B/£210 private suite with jacuzzi).
Khao San
If Sukhumvit isn't for you, or if you are more into the backpacker scene, then you would be better off staying in the Khao San Road area. These days, given the popularity of Khao San Road itself, some of the better places to stay can be found a short walk away on the parallel streets, Rambuttri Alley or Thanon Tani.
In terms of hostels our top three picks would be The Alley Hostel & Bistro (300B/£7.50 dorm rooms); Bed Station Hostel Khao San (400-1000B dorm rooms); and DPM Bangkok Hostel Bar & Travel (300B/£7.50 dorms).
For mid-range hotels, our top three would be Dewan Bangkok (2000B/£50 deluxe double); Casa Vimaya Riverside (2500-3000B/£60-75); and Villa De Khaosan (2500-3500B/£60-85).
What To Do in Bangkok
Temple Hopping
There are over 400 temples in the city; some old, some new, some tiny, some huge. The question is, where to start? Well, the three most popular are Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun. You could feasibly visit all three of these in one day (there are tours such as this one which have good reviews).
Wat Phra Kaew, situated within the Grand Palace (entrance to the whole complex, 500B/£12.50), translates as 'The Temple of the Emerald Buddha' and is well worth a visit. The Grand Palace really is a must see for any visitor to Bangkok.
Wat Pho is also known as 'The Temple of the Reclining Buddha', because it contains the spectacular 43 metre long golden statue of Buddha (100B/£2.50).
Wat Arun, or 'Temple of the Dawn' is my favourite of the three. This 17th century marvel, built across the river from the Grand Palace, is truly awesome (100B/£2.50).
Other than the main three, I would also recommend the ancient and hugely impressive Wat Suthat Thepwararam (20B/50p), and the striking and unique Wat Benchamabophit (or the Marble Temple).
Note, you must dress appropriately to visit temples in Thailand. This means you need to have your shoulders and knees covered. Shorts and t-shirt is fine, as long as they're not too short. If in doubt, the super thin fisherman trousers, which are sold everywhere, are a good way to cover up without getting too hot.
River Cruising
Bangkok's Chao Phraya river hosts a hive of activity. One of its main uses is for public transport. If you head to Sathorn Pier (near Saphan Taksin BTS station) you will find kiosks where you can buy a One-Day River Pass for 180B (£4.50). This grants you all day access on the Tourist Boat (those denoted by the blue flag).
Going north you can stop at, or very near to, China Town (stop N5; Ratchawong), Wat Pho (N8; Tha Tien), Wat Arun (with a river crossing from N8), Grand Palace (N9; Tha Chang), Ratankosin Island and the Khao San road area (N13; Phra Athit) and many other lesser known attractions along the way.
Galleries and Museums
Just around the corner from the Grand Palace, there is the Bangkok National Museum, hosting Thailand's largest collection of artefacts. Near Wat Pho you will find the Museum of Siam which displays a really interesting collection set in a large neoclassical house. Here ancient relics are contrasted with interesting pieces of modern art.
If you're looking for something more contemporary you could visit the MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art), which houses some of Thailand's most eminent artists of the modern era. Alternatively, you could visit the BACC (Bangkok Arts & Cultural Centre). Here you will find local artists displaying and selling their work, as well as a number of exhibitions on the top few floors. Its worth a visit for the building alone.
Muay Thai Boxing
This is Thailand's national sport and there is no better place to see the top fighters than at Bangkok's Lumpinee Stadium. Sadly, the stadium moved in 2014 and is now located quite far out of town (you may want to consider the more centrally located Rajadamnern Stadium instead).
Lumpinee hosts fights on Tuesdays and Fridays (6.30-11pm) and Saturdays (4-8pm and 8.15pm-midnight). Ringside seats cost a whopping 2000B (£50), however, if you want to get stuck in with the locals in the standing area, prices start at 200B (£5). Do not get tricked by the many touts outside telling you that tickets have sold out- make sure you go in to the actual ticket office.
Human Body Museum
This one is a bit weird... The Human Body Museum is hidden away and fairly macabre but it's a fascinating exhibition nonetheless. It features 14 (real) preserved bodies that have been dissected in various ways. Each shows a different element of the human body, in the most visceral way imaginable! It's not for the squeamish but if you're looking for something different to do, right in the centre of town, then this might be the place.
A word of caution: it is really hard to find. Firstly you will need to make your way to the Chulalongkorn University near Siam Square. Once there, find the Dentistry Faculty Building, and then head to the 9th floor.
If this is your kind of thing, you will also enjoy the Siriraj Medical Museum.
Jim Thompson House
The Jim Thompson House is an interesting museum, consisting of six traditional Thai buildings and housing a large collection of art and statues. The house and collection belonged to the renowned businessman Jim Thompson, who made Thailand his home in the 1940s, going on to set up one of the most successful silk companies in the world. This historic and peaceful exhibition provides a nice escape in the middle of the bustling central Siam area. Entrance is 200B (£5) for adults (children under 10 go free).
Day Trips
There are two day trips that are easy to do from Bangkok. Firstly, Kanchanaburi which is the site of the infamous Bridge over the River Kwai. Any day trips visiting this town should take around 10 hours and involve stopping at the War Cemetery, the JEATH museum and a train ride along the original Death Railway. A sombre but historically important and interesting day out.
Secondly, I'd recommend a trip to Ayutthaya. This ancient city was the capital long before Bangkok and is often regarded as Thailand's answer to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, as it has a number of temples dating back to the 14th century. You can arrange a tour to Ayutthaya but this is a trip you can easily arrange yourself. You can take a very pleasant, scenic train journey from Hua Lamphong station for 20B (50p) in 3rd class, which takes around 2 hours. Whilst there, it might be easier to hire a tuktuk driver to take you around the temples. This will probably cost around 1000B (£25) for the day.
Where To Eat
There is no shortages of great places to eat in Bangkok. Chinatown's street food scene is legendary. Head to Yaowarat Road and you'll be spoilt for choice. Look out for the busiest stalls, see what the locals are ordering and you'll probably be on to a winner (this guide is a good place to start: Chinatown Food).
Beyond the street food options, Bangkok is fast paced; restaurants come and go so quickly that often my favourite places on one trip don't exist on the next. However, I'll pick out a few excellent stalwarts.
Cabbages & Condoms
This quirky restaurant is a Bangkok institution. It was initially set up in order to raise funds and awareness for condom use in Thailand. Since then it has become famous for serving up excellent, authentic Thai food. Most of the decorations are made of condoms (including a life-size Father Christmas that greets you as you walk in), which makes for interesting dining surroundings, but it's fun and the food is delicious, plus some profits go to a good cause.
10 Sukhumvit 12 Alley, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110
Sabai Jai
This one is for the chicken fans. It can be tricky to find because it has moved in recent years and confusingly (or cunningly, depending on how you look at it) another restaurant with a similar name has moved into their old spot. So make sure you find the right one and then order the whole chicken: Gai Yang. This dish from the Isaan region involves marinating and grilling a whole chicken. It comes chopped into 8 pieces and it will blow you mind! There is a whole menu to choose from, the papaya salad is also great, but the Gai Yang is an absolute must.
87 Ekkamai 3 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
May Kaidee Tanao
If you're over in the Khao San Road area and fancy some vegetarian food, May Kaidee's is a long running veggie restaurant known for serving up authentic, cheap dishes. If you enjoy the food there, they also run daily cooking classes at 9am for 1500B (£40) where you get to make 8 classic Thai dishes
59 Ratchadamnoen Avenue, Talat Yot, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200
Tony's
There is some really good Indian and Middle Eastern food to be had in Bangkok. But for a truly authentic Indian meal, you should head to the Phahurat area (known as Little India). Here, the pick of the bunch is a small and tricky to find restaurant called Tony's. Don't expect luxury in terms of decor and furniture, this is a real authentic experience in a less touristy area, but the food is great. This is definitely one where google maps comes in handy though!
64/1 Soi Rimklongongarg (off Chakphet Road), Bangkok
T & K Seafood
If seafood is your thing, then you'll want to head to Chinatown where you will be spoilt for choice. T & K is a long-running, popular little shop that offers up all manner of delicious, freshly-cooked seafood to a packed crowd of locals and tourists every evening.
49 51 Phadung Dao Rd, Talat Noi, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Daniel Thaiger
Sometimes, even when you're surrounded by amazing Thai food, only a burger will do. There's no shortage of options in Bangkok these day, but it's generally agreed that Daniel Thaiger's are the best. In a few short years they've gone from a small business selling burgers from a van, to having two restaurants and several vans. Clearly people can't enough!
30 Soi Sukhumvit 11, Khlong Toei Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Where To Drink
Bangkok's nightlife is so vibrant and wide spread that it is difficult make specific recommendations. Wherever you are, you'll find somewhere that sells ice cold beer. In the Sukhumvit area, the main spots are Soi 11, where you will find a mix of trendy bars and late night clubs (e.g. Apoteka), and Thong Lor (soi 55), which is the alternative side of town where Bangkok's hipsters hang out.
If cheap bars full of backpackers playing drinking games is your thing, then Khao San Road is the place to head. Whilst Chinatown is starting to gain a reputation for having some of the best cocktail and speak-easy bars in the city. So, there's no shortage of places to drink in Bangkok, but here are a couple of suggestions to get you started.
Tep Bar
This cool little bar in Chinatown is really easy to miss. Found down a little winding alleyway, behind a heavy door (you may have to knock to be let in). Tep serves up incredible, creative cocktails as well as some really delicious Thai-style fusion tapas dishes.
This is definitely one of the trendiest places to be in Bangkok. On our first visit, we were treated to some traditional Thai music as we sat drinking cocktails at the bar. It's on the pricey side, but well worth nipping in for a treat.
69, 71 Soi Yi Sip Song Karakadakhom 4, Pom Prap, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok 10100
342 Bar
Sky bars are a big deal in Bangkok and they have cropped up everywhere in the past decade, with each new one trying to outdo the rest. They aren't our cup of tea for a number of reasons. The views are incredible, but they tend to be hugely over-priced, packed with tourists and have unnecessary dress codes (think shirt, trousers and shoes in 40C heat...)
However, on our last visit we stumbled across a rooftop bar that was fantastic. Whilst it is only a few floors high, it offers amazing riverside views of the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and the Rama VIII bridge. The cocktails aren't cheap but they wont break the bank either. And the best part- there's no strict dress code. T-shirt and shorts is fine here!
On the ground floor, you can sit and have a beer by the riverside accompanied by the sound of local blues musicians. It's a bit out of the way and can be tricky to find, but really worth the journey.
342 Soi Wat Rakhang (Arunamarin 18), Prannok Road, Siriraj Bankoknoi Bangkok 10700
Jack's Bar
This cheap and cheerful bar is essentially a wooden shack perched right on the riverside in the Bang Rak area. You'll find it at the bottom of an alleyway, behind the super fancy Shagri-La Hotel. It's rustic, to say the least, but the beer is cheap, the food is authentic and it draws a friendly mix of locals, expats and the odd tourist. It gets busy in the early evening, so if you want sit and watch the sun go down with a cold beer on the riverfront, try to get there a bit earlier.
Jack's Bar, Soi Wat Suan Plu, Khet Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
How To Get To/From
There are two airports in the city. Most international flights will land at Suvarnabhumi airport. Getting into the city from here is easy using the BTS (here is a handy guide if it's your first time). Alternatively, there is a bus station, with regular connections all over the city, as well as a taxi rank if you prefer.
Domestic flights, or flights from other countries in S.E. Asia, are more likely to land at Don Mueang airport. This can be a bit trickier to get to/from. Taxi is usually the best option. Alternatively, you can take a bus from the airport to Mo Chit BTS station and get to where you want to go from there. Or you could get the train from the airport to Hua Lamphong station.
If you are travelling within Thailand, flying is still a viable option. Most big cities have an airport and domestic flights can be inexpensive (Air Asia is a solid budget airline). If you would prefer not to fly, there will usually be numerous options to get to/from Bangkok. Wherever you are coming from or heading to, there will almost certainly be minivans or coaches (check 12go for tickets).
Likewise, trains leave from Hua Lamphong station to most places. Whilst usually a bit slower and more expensive than minivans, they do tend to be a bit more comfortable and can be a nice way to travel. See the excellent Seat61 guide for times and prices.
