General Introduction
Phang Nga is a really cool little town, just above Phuket on the mainland. It’s a traditional Thai town, with relatively few tourists compared to most other destinations in Southern Thailand. As such, don’t expect too much in the way of accommodation choice, Western food options or nightlife. However, what you will find is an extremely welcoming community, great food, and some of the most beautiful surroundings in the country. The main draw here is Ao Phang Nga National Park, the absolutely stunning marine park that gives Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay a run for its money. But there’s more to the town than that and it is definitely worth a stop in its own right.
Where To Stay in Phang Nga
Options are somewhat limited in Phang Nga, but there are a number of decent choices. The main cluster are found along the Phet Kasem Road, between the Big C store to the south and the City Pillar Shrine to the north. This stretch of road is also where you will find most of the restaurants, small shops and tour operators. It is surrounded by incredible limestone cliffs, making for great views if you get up early to watch a sunrise with a coffee from your hotel.
Baan Phangnga Bed, Cafe & Bakery
I haven’t actually stayed here myself, but I have hung out there a few times and it is a really fun place. The owner, Tan, is a lovely, welcoming person who will treat you like one of the family. The first night I went in this place, I ended up drinking whiskey and doing karaoke all night with a group of Thai friends. Despite the language barrier it was one of the most fun evenings I’ve had in Thailand. The following night, I ended up involved in the birthday celebrations for one of the family members. This is such a genuinely friendly place to be, and from what I hear from others, a great place to stay. Contact them directly for availability and prices: email: baanphangngabandb@gmail.com Facebook: Baan Phangnga
Home Phang-Nga Guesthouse
Small but comfortable rooms, with friendly owners, this guesthouse sits just back from the main road, and offers great views of the surrounding cliffs. Standard double rooms are available from around 1000B (£25) up to around 1350B (£35) for a bigger room with nicer views.
Lodge Phang Nga
A really smartly designed guesthouse located on the Montri Road, which runs parallel with the main road. This is definitely one of the most upmarket options in the town, not for those on a budget. Prices start from 1700B (£45) for a Queen room, up to 2500B (£65) for a deluxe King studio.
Our Recommendation
Thaweesuk Boutique Homestay
A really cool, beautifully preserved traditional Thai house that has been converted into a charming guesthouse. The owners couldn’t be more more helpful and friendly. When we stayed here, they unfortunately had to attend a family funeral and so we were initially looked after by their daughters, who were great! Despite not being there, they stayed in regular contact with us and were still booking us tours and onward travel. The rooms are small and a little basic, but this is reflected in the price. Additionally, the breakfast is great- they bake their own bread and have nice, fresh coffee. Finally, they have the most amazing roof terrace with views right across the amazing surrounding landscape. Double rooms are 450B (£11.50) with a fan, or around 700B (£17) with A/C.
What To Do in Phang Nga
Phang Nga Bay
This is the main reason people come to Phang Nga. It is, without doubt, one of the most stunning sights in the whole of South East Asia. Vietnam’s Ha Long Bay gets more attention but, in my opinion, Phang Nga Bay is even better. It is just as beautiful and is far less crowded. One of the main reasons people come to the bay is to see ‘James Bond Island’, the 20-metre tall limestone karst, famous for being Scaramanga’s secret base in the James Bond film The Man with the Golden Gun. This is an impressive sight, but there is so much more to see- tangled mangroves, caves, ancient cave paintings, and jaw-dropping scenery. Many people do a day trip to the bay from Phuket, but I would definitely recommend stopping for a couple of nights in Phang Nga and going from there instead. Firstly, it will be cheaper. Also, you are likely to be in a much smaller group and you will get longer out on the boat as it is far closer to the town than it is to Phuket. I have done two day trips out on the bay and I heartily recommend M.T. Tour. They have a booking office on Phet Kasem Road, opposite the Muang Thong Hotel. Email: mt.tour2500@gmail.com Facebook: M.T. Tour.
Sa Nang Manora Forest Park
Located around 4km north of Phang Nga town, Sa Nang Manora park is a great place for a cheap day trip that you can organise yourself. Either head there yourself up the Phet Kasem Road (it’s all fully signposted), or you could get a taxi there. The park has a 2km long trail route with 8 stops featuring caves, huge trees and other points of interest. One of the main reasons people come here is for the waterfalls. There are around six found in the park, so make sure you bring some swimwear to cool down in the waterholes.
Phung Chang cave
Located off the main road just a bit south of the town, this is a pretty interesting cave complex to visit. It has quite a pricey entrance fee (500B/£12.50), and it only takes an hour or so but it is a fascinating trip. The knowledgeable guides walk you through, with some sections requiring a canoe and bamboo raft, adding to the fun. Be warned, they do not allow photos.
Rusei Sawan and Luk Suea caves
Set in Somdet Phra Srinagarindra Public Park (on the opposite side of the main road to Phung Chang cave) are two more caves. The park is worth a visit in its own right. It’s very nicely maintained and a great spot for an afternoon stroll. The caves are not as exciting as Phung Chang, but they are far more easily accessible and free.
Wat Tham Ta Pan temple
This is one of the more bizarre temples you’re likely to come across and it wont be for everyone. At first it seems to be a fairly standard Buddhist temple, however, once you pass through the dragon-themed tunnel you descend into hell! Well, at least a small Buddhist depiction of hell, all carved from wood. These carvings display sinners on the receiving end of some fairly gruesome torture (probably not suitable for children!). The temple is build at the entrance of Ta Pan cave, which you can also go into. Make sure you have a light on you, as it can get a bit dark and scary down there. Entrance is free.
Where To Eat & Drink in Phang Nga
There are actually quite a lot of restaurants in Phang Nga town, mainly situated either around the main stretch in town by all of the hotels, or a bit further south on the Phet Kasem Road, by the hospital. However, the majority of places have Thai names, or no names at all, and tend not to appear online. So, the best thing to do is get out exploring and stop wherever you like the look of. That said, there are a few spots worth recommending:
Duang Restaurant
This was a great find, just over the road from Thaweesuk guesthouse. We ate here a couple of times. Cheap and delicious traditional Thai food. The lady who runs is it, erm, interesting… she was perfectly nice to us but we witnessed, what I think, were a couple of marital disputes whilst we ate there, which added an unexpected level of drama to the meal- think a Thai Fawlty Towers! But don’t let that put you off as this a great place to find some cheap local dishes.
Genesis Garden
If you’re looking for somewhere a bit more stylish than the standard plastic tables and chairs type places mainly found in Phang Nga, then head to Genesis. A pretty little cafe that does good quality Thai and Western food. Very friendly owners.
Krua Ban Nok
So this is a tricky one to describe. I’m not sure that is what it is actually called. The name on the restaurant itself is in Thai, and it doesn’t show up on trip advisor or anything. Its on the main road, just at the point where there is a bend in the road. A very traditional Thai restaurant and a favourite among the locals, this is definitely for the more adventurous eaters. I’ve included a picture of the exterior from google maps to help you find it!
Er-gu Cafe
A really cool little cafe on Montri Alley, running above the main road. They serve up good coffee and cakes as well as Thai dishes. Also, there is a great view from the garden.
How To Get To/From
The nearest airport is Phuket. There is a bridge connecting Phuket to the mainland, so it is relatively easy to get between the airport and Phang Nga town. Krabi airport is an alternative, and a similar distance away.
It should be possible to get a coach or minivan to Phang Nga from most place in Thailand. As always, your first port of call should be with hotel at the previous destination to see if they can arrange your onward travel to Phang Nga. If that’s not possible, check 12go. A couple of years ago, a huge new bus station was build, quite a trek out of town. I’m not quite sure what the logic behind this was, but either way, I would recommend contacting your hotel in advance and asking if they could collect you from the station as we had to wait quite a long time for a taxi to come by.
