General Introduction
Located off Thailand’s Gulf coast, Koh Phangan is probably most famous for its monthly Full Moon Parties. However, even if all-night partying isn’t your thing, its well worth considering a stop on the island. Popular with backpackers, couples and families, there is something to suit most tastes. Some of Thailand’s the most perfect golden beaches are found on Koh Phangan, with clear waters that are great for swimming and shallow snorkeling. As well as being famous for the big parties, the island is also synonymous with yoga retreats and nature resorts, making it a great place to unwind. There is a small centre where you can find some nice restaurants and bars. Overall, Koh Phangan is a great option for anyone wanting to get a taste of island life.
Where To Stay in Koh Phangan
Koh Phangan is the fifth largest island in the country, with around 20 different beaches available to stay on, each with their own individual vibe. Therefore, it’s difficult to narrow down the recommendations. So here are my top six beaches, that should suit a range of needs
Haad Salad
My personal beach of choice. It is about as far away as possible from Haad Rin (where the Full Moon Party takes place) and, as such, it is one of the quieter beaches on the island. This gives it a very relaxed, family friendly vibe. However, its the beach itself that really sells Haad Salad. A wide, 600 meter long stretch of white sand with clear blue water. A small reef is found not far from the shore, making it a great place to have a swim or a snorkel. There is a decent selection of places to eat and drink (though it really isn’t a party beach- things wind down early here). Last, but not least, the sunsets are the best I have ever seen.
Hotel recommendations:
Cookies Salad Resort. Located at the south end of the beach. It has a chilled vibe and great views, with a small swimming pool. From 1085B (£26) to 1546B (£37).
Salad Hut Bungalows. Fancier than Cookies, Salad Hut is located right in the middle of Haad Salad. Spacious, clean and really well designed, you see the quality as soon as you step in. From 1660B (£40) to 3688B (£90) for a beautiful deluxe beachfront villa
Thong Nai Pan Noi
A long-established tourist spot, located in the Northeast corner of the island, Thong Nai Pan is divided into two small beaches- Noi and Yai. Thong Nai Pan Noi is the better of the two. Beautiful white sand beachs and clear waters make it one of the most picturesque beaches on the island. It is a good choice if you want a bit of entertainment but don’t want to stay right among the Full Moon Party revellers. There are plenty of places to eat and grab a drink, but it still remains chilled and laid back.
Hotel recommendation:
Longtail Beach Resort. At the southern end of the beach, Longtail offers clean, spacious bungalows set in a pretty garden a stones throw from the beach. The is a nice pool, and guests always report that the staff are great. From 1200B (£30) to 2000B (£50).
Srithanu Beach
Found in the Northwest, Srithanu is popular with snorkelers. The surrounding waters have a mix of fresh and salt water, which makes it a great area to spot a more diverse range of underwater life than other beaches. There is also a small village, Ban Sri Thanu, where you will find a handful of restaurants, bars and a cool little market.
Hotel recommendation:
Nice Sea Resort. Nice family-run resort located directly on Srithanu beach. Suitable for various budgets, starting at 675B (£17) for smaller fan bungalows, right up to around 3000B-4000B (£75-£100) for a beautiful and huge bungalow right on the beach.
Haad Mae
Located by Haad Salad in the Northwest corner, Haad Mae is one of the most popular places to stay on the island, and for good reason. The beach is stunning, lined with palm trees and has crystal clear waters. The main feature that separates Haad Mae is its access to Koh Ma, a small island located just offshore. It is possible to reach Koh Ma on foot at low tide. Teeming with sea life, this is another excellent snorkeling spot. Due to it’s popularity, there are plenty of eating and drinking options in the evening. Overall, Haad Mae is a solid choice to suit most travellers needs.
Hotel recommendations:
Maehaad Guesthouse. This is the best budget option. Set a couple of minutes walk back from the beach, but they offer decent sized, clean, comfortable rooms and great service for the very reasonable price of 600B (£15)
Maehaad Bay Resort. If you want to go a bit more upmarket, look no further. A huge outdoor pool, stylish rooms, and beautiful gardens located right by the beach. From 2000B (£50) for a standard double up to 6000B (£150) for a personal villa with outdoor spa bath.
Haad Yao
Found on the West coast, Haad Yao is a secluded paradise. A great beach, clear waters and another snorkeling hotspot. It also features spectacular sunsets. One of the longest stretches on the island, it is great for taking a leisurely beach stroll. There are several places to eat and a couple of beach bars. This is definitely a place to get away from the crowds and relax.
Hotel recommendations:
Sun Moon Star Resort. Elegant, stylish resort set slightly back from the beach. 1490B (£36) for a beautiful villa.
Euphoria Bungalow. What the rooms lack in style, the resort makes up for in location. Situation right bang in the middle of Haad Yao beach. From 1300B (£30) to 2500B (£60) for a beach front bungalow.
Haven Resort. A good option as it sits right between Haad Yao and Secret Beach, so you have two beautiful beaches less than a 5 minute walk in either direction. From 510B (£12) to 2000B (£50) for a spacious villa with great views.
Shiralea Backpackers Resort. Finally, a great option for backpackers. If you’re looking for more of a party vibe, but want to stay away from the main party beach, this is the place to be. A bed in the 8-bed dorm is around 200B (£5). They also offer private double bungalows for just 400B (£10).
Bottle Beach
Finally, I have to include a recommendation for Bottle Beach. It’s difficult to reach, far from the pier, and has limited accommodation and eating options. You might be asking why I’d recommend it… However, all of that is worth it if you want the perfect castaway on a tropical island experience. The beach is absolutely stunning, surrounded by lush mountains and crystal clear blue waters. Bottle Beach is no longer the hidden secret it once was. However, given its accessibility issues, it remains an unspoilt paradise and you will still have the beach almost to yourself. If you can handle the hassle of getting there and want a real escape then this is, without doubt, the prettiest place to stay on Koh Phangan.
Hotel recommendation:
Haad Khuad Resort. Incredible value resort on a beautiful, secluded beach. Clean spacious rooms and attentive friendly staff make this the best option. From 900B (£22) to 1350B (£32). They also have two-storey beach front bungalows that are currently 800B (£20) on booking.com. I’m not sure why they are so cheap, but if you’re heading to Bottle Beach then snap one up quick!
What To Do in Koh Phangan
Full Moon Party
Obviously, this is one of the main reasons people travel to Koh Phangan. Taking place on Haad Rin beach every month on the night of the full moon, the party can attract up to 30,000 visitors. I first went when I was 18 and then went back at the age of 32, expecting to find it unbearable, but actually it was still good fun (though we did retire back from the beach to a quieter bar by around midnight and were in bed by 2am…) A word of caution: don’t take any drugs; there are police officers in abundance who will be happy to take a £1000 bribe off you.
Yoga
Yoga is Koh Phangan’s other famous activity. There are no shortage of yoga resorts, workshops and courses on the island. Two of the most famous options, both of which you can stay at, are The Sanctuary which is found on the South East beach of Haad Tien, and Orion Healing Centre, which is located in the yoga-heavy Srithanu area. The Sanctuary is set in wonderful jungle grounds and right on the beach. They have dorm rooms from 350B (£9) and budget bungalows from 950B (£24). They run several yoga classes a day for 400B (£10) per class.
Diving
Many people head to the nearby Koh Tao for diving, with good reason- it is one of the best dive sites in the world. However, there is a good argument to be made for doing it in Koh Phangan instead: it’ll be cheaper, with smaller groups and you will still get to dive among some amazing reefs. Additionally, it is famous for whale sharks, which is pretty awesome! Asia Blue are a well renowned dive company that run courses in Koh Phangan, Koh Samui and Koh Tao. They also run a hostel on Thong Sala beach with a bed in a dorm costing 200B (£5), up to deluxe private bungalows for 1650B (£42).
Ang Thong National Marine Park
Ang Thong is a stunning archipelago of over 40 small islands, situated around an hour from Koh Phangan. It features some of the best wildlife spotting opportunities in Thailand, with over 50 species of birds, lizards, turtles, pythons, and cobras on land and some amazing underwater species, including blacktip reef sharks, parrot fish, and blue-spotted fantail rays. The main company offering daily tours from the island are Orion. They get fairly consistently positive reviews and the itinerary for their trip includes swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, a cave tour and a hike up to the breath-taking view point.
Trekking, Khao Ra and Waterfalls
Many people head to Koh Phangan for the parties, the yoga and the amazing beaches. As such, it’s easy to overlook the fact that away from the edge of the island is a rich, and fairly untouched, forest featuring incredible viewpoints, mountains, waterfalls and all kinds of wildlife. So if you get bored of relaxing on the beach, you might want to consider doing a bit of trekking. This guide put together by Phangan Explorers gives tips and directions on various treks you can do on the island: trekking guide. Khao Ra is the highest point on the island. It’ll take you a good 1.5-2 hours to reach the summit but it is worth it for the view. Additionally, there are a number of amazing waterfalls dotted around Koh Phangan. The best of the bunch are probably Phaeng, located right in the centre of the island; Wang Sai, near to Mae Haad beach; and Nam Tok Phaeng, (a.k.a. Paradise Waterfall), which is the most fun of the three with rope swings to launch yourself into the swimming hole.
Where To Eat in Koh Phangan
Food is really great on Koh Phangan, where ever you are. You’ll find fresh seafood and good quality Thai food on most beaches, and there are a number of decent Western options in Thong Sala town. Here are a couple of options to suit the type of meal you are after.
Street Food
Phantip Market
Open daily from around 4pm-11pm, this little market has some of the best street food you will ever try. It has a great atmosphere and cheap prices. Definitely worth checking out.
Thong Sala Saturday Night Market
On a saturday, there is a separate market just down the road. You’ll find plenty of delicious street food here, as well as some souvenirs.
Fancy Dining
Fisherman’s Restaurant & Bar
Family-run since Fisherman’s has been serving up delicious fresh fish dishes since 2007. Overlooking the comings and goings around Baan Tai Pier and featuring a beach front bar, this is one of the most popular spots on the island.
NORTH Restaurant on the Beach
Stylish restaurant with stunning views, located in the Chaloklam area. Serving up mainly European dishes. Book a table around sunset time for a real romantic night out.
Cheap Eats
Ying Ying’s Kitchen
One of my favourite places on the island. It’s a small place, just behind Haad Salad, serving up traditional Thai dishes. The menu has an almost fast food system- you pick your dish, then your meat (or veg), your rice, how spicy you want it and a side dish. So everything is really flexible, allowing you to get the exact meal you want, but still all cooked fresh to order. The women running it are great fun and really friendly.
Petty’s Place
Excellent food at reasonable prices, found just outside of Thong Sala. Charming and friendly, they cook up great Thai dishes such as curries and fried chicken and salads.
Food with a View
Mae Haad Tree House Bar
Set a bit of a walk back from Mae Haad beach, this amazing place features stunning views of the jungle, the beach and Koh Ma island.
Siam House
This one is less about the view from the restaurant and more about the view of the restaurant itself. A really well designed place, it is all built from natural woods, and set in beautiful gardens, featuring a pond. Found near Thong Nai Pan Yai beach.
Western Food
Vintage Burgers
If you’re craving a burger, then look no further than Vintage. Genuinely one of the best burgers I have had anywhere in the world, never mind in Koh Phangan. It has a really cool vibe and they do good cocktails too. Find it in Thong Sala town.
Little Mexico
Good quality, freshly cooked Mexican food located near Haad Yao.
Where To Drink in Koh Phangan
Obviously, if you’re after a party, then Haad Rin is the place to be, especially around the time of the various moon parties. To be honest, they are all very similar to me. There’s also a number of options in Thong Sala town, and what ever beach you stay on will have a variety of beach bars on offer. However, there are a few excellent options that deserve a mention:
Rasta Baby
Found on Thong Nai Pan Noi, Rasta Baby is probably the best and longest running reggae bars in the area. Notoriously chilled and friendly, you will find locals and tourists getting together here any night of the week.
Pirate’s Bar
Like a small club in a shipwrecked boat. Located in Srithanu, this is the place to head if your looking for some all night partying and dancing.
The Jam Bar
Fancy having a jam with some talented local and travelling musicians? If you can play, or just want to listen to some great live music, head to the Jam Bar by Hin Kong beach.
Amsterdam Bar
I feel uneasy adding this one to the list, as its not the best bar in Koh Phangan. It is a big old trek up hill, the drinks are expensive, its always busy and, whilst they have a swimming pool, it is not well maintained. However, it does offer one of the best sunset views on the island.
How To Get To/From
Koh Phangan still has no airport. Whilst this is good news in terms of the island staying a bit quieter than the likes of Phuket and Koh Samui, and avoiding the package holiday style resorts, it does mean that it is only accessible by ferry.
If you are coming by plane, then the nearest airport is on Koh Samui, where you will be able to get regular ferries from Nathon pier. However, you may find it cheaper to go to Surat Thani airport and make your way from there to Donsak pier, around an hour away.
If you are travelling by coach, minivan, car or train, you need to head to Surat Thani. Often, you will find you can book an all in one ticket that will include all the various stops needed to get to Koh Phangan, including the ferry. However, it’s possible to do this yourself. Make your way to Surat Thani town where you will find a number of ferry operators. The cheapest are Phantip and Raja, which take around 2.5 hours to reach the island. Songserm are the mid-range option- faster than the car ferries, but still a budget option. The more expensive options, Seatran Discovery and Lomprayah, offer the quickest transfer times and the most comfort, but obviously come at a premium.
Timetables
Phantip – located on the corner of Talad Mai Road and Talad Mai 8 Alley.
Departing daily at 08:00, 12:00, 14:00, and 16:30, taking 4 hours in total to reach Koh Phangan
Raja – for Raja, you go straight to the port which is located at 25/1 road Suratthani Mittraphap, Sikhio District Suratthani, Don Sak, Don Sak District, Surat Thani 84220
Departing daily at 08:00, 09:30, 13:30, 14:00, 15:30, 18:00, taking 2.5 hours
Songserm – the office is located by the Tapee pier at Bang Kung, Mueang Surat Thani District, Surat Thani 84000
Departing the offices daily at 08:00 and 14:00. They stop at Koh Samui first so this takes around 4.5 hours in total.
Seatran Discovery – pick-up point located at 348/17 Talad Mai Road Soi 19, Tumbol Talad, Surat Thani 84000
Departing daily at 09:30 and 12:30, taking 4 hours in total
Lomprayah – ticket office is located at Talat Mai 33 Alley.
Departing from Tapee Pier daily at 09:00 and 15:30, taking 2.5 hours.